Nestled deep in the mountains on the border of Sichuan and Yunnan Provinces in rugged southwest China is a crystal body of water called Lugu Lake. Its stunning natural beauty draws thousands of visitors all year round.

Lugu Lake [Photo by Chen Changchun]

Situated over 2,000 meters above sea level, Lugu Lake is a fantastical location bordered to the north and northeast by what locals have dubbed 'grass seas.' Two are located in Luguhu Township, Yanyuan County of Sichuan Province, and cover an area of approximately seven square kilometers. Two smaller 'grass seas' lie over the border in Yunnan Province.

In spring and summer months, the grass growing in the water becomes so thick that the lakes take on the appearance of grasslands, and only when the tops of grazing cattle and horses appear, or boats slide by in the water, is it possible to realize what exactly one is truly viewing. Later, in autumn and winter, the grass in the water slowly withers and turns yellow, creating a unique visual landscape complemented perfectly by the blue of the sky and the white of the clouds.

Mosuo women  gliding across the water [Photo by Chen Changchun]

During these months, a great variety of birds migrate to the grass seas, with wild ducks accounting for the largest population. Local policies aimed at wild animal protection have greatly increased public awareness, and the birds have gradually acclimated to the arrival of human visitors. In winter, visitors who row deep into the grass seas will find wild ducks in their natural habitat, searching for food or simply playing, and yet more ducks in the skies overhead add a dynamic element to the otherwise serene scene.

An old wooden bridge spans one of the grass seas, but no-one seems to know its age precisely. It forms a poetic picture with boats sliding underneath, flying birds above, humming insects hovering amongst the green grass and local people in colorful ethnic attire going about their business.

The primary residents of the grass seas are Mosuo people, a branch of the Naxi ethnic group. Small numbers of Han, Yi and Tibetan peoples also live nearby. Residents of the area typically live off the grass sea itself, grazing their livestock along the banks, fishing in the water, feeding pigs with the grass, washing and swimming in the tranquil lake, and even on occasion finding romance on the banks.

The elaborate clothing of various ethnic groups combined with bright prayer flags adds plentiful color to this unique area. Visitors are fascinated by the special marriage customs of the Mosuo people, as well as Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) style clothing which is still worn by many of the Han residents of the area. All of this lends the grass seas a mysterious and captivating charm.

Most Beautiful Hostel in China?

Only seven kilometers from Luguhu Township, Lugu Lake Youth Hostel enjoys an advantageous location: In front of its gate is a 10-square -kilometer wetland and it is only a 10-minute walk to the banks of the lake. Visitors have a perfect view of the grass seas from the rooms on the second floor. The hostel's wooden structure, built in the mosuo style with a large courtyard, contains 27 rooms and charges 80 yuan per night for a double. It also provides free Internet access, parking, tourist advice and laundry facilities for guests. There is a small bar on the first floor where visitors can read a book or take a nap on the tatami mats provided, basking in the warm sunshine on the banks of the grass seas.

Tips:

Transportation

Take a train from Chengdu, capital of Sichuan Province, to Xichang City and then take a bus to Lugu Lake. There are also buses and trains from Lijiang City, Yunnan Province.

Food

Mosuo food such as specially preserved meats as well as fresh-from-the-lake treats including whitebait, shrimp, fish and bullfrog, are all highly recommended.

Accommodation

Visitors to Wind's Guesthouse of Luguhu can enjoy a discount rate by showing this issue of China Pictorial or through membership with www.likefar.com.

Contact: Liu Wei

Telephone: 0888-5824284 Cell phone: 13808004749